Everyday is an Adventure

Piazza San Marco

Grand Canal View from Rialto
Ponte Rialto
Daybreak

Everyday here is an adventure, and some of them turn out to be more than I bargained for! That happened this weekend. The 1st of May is Italy’s liberation day, so Monday is a holiday, school is closed and everyone is traveling! (This is the 3rd holiday in the 3 weeks since I started school) Anyway, I decided to take a day trip to Venice on Sunday.

Venice is one of the most beautiful places in the world, and not like anyplace or anything that you have ever seen in your life! It is "enchanting" in every sense of the word. I feel like Alice in Wonderland stepping through the glass when I am there! Honestly, it is like a dream. I was very excited and got up early to catch a 10:00 train for the 3 hour ride to Venice. When I got to the train station to buy my ticket, the 10:00 train was sold out! That should have been my first clue for what was to come, but I went ahead and booked the next train out at 11:30 a.m.

Since the train I wanted was sold out, I thought I should go ahead and purchase my return trip so that I wouldn’t be caught on that end with a sold out train, and I booked a return trip at 5 p.m. I went and had breakfast, and wandered around the station waiting for time to board my train. As I wandered I decided that 6 hours on the train (round trip) was too long to only spend 3 ½ hours there, so made a change to my return ticket to come back later that evening.

The trip to Venice was very nice. It was a Eurostar train, which is express, and very nice and comfortable inside. I had two seats all to myself, and studied a lot, and did my homework on the way there. When I arrived, I was surprised to find that the train station is right on the Grand Canal, and it is beautiful! I located the vaporetta, which are the ferries that take you up and down the canal, and boarded one. I had decided to visit the Peggy Guggenheim Museum, which has a tremendous collection of American modern art.

When I got to the Rialto Bridge on the vaporetta, I couldn’t stand it anymore and went ahead and got off, even though my stop was further down. I just wanted to be in the city and to take some photos. I walked for about 2 miles to get to the Guggenheim. The gallery is unbelievable! There is a Picasso, a lot of Max Ernst, an entire room of Jackson Pollock, a Dali, Chagall, etc. If you are ever in Venice, it might be something you overlook, because why would an American go see American art is Venice.......but don’t! Believe me, you can only look at so many "Madonna and Child" paintings and stay sane, and this is a great diversion, and really one of the best museums I have been in. It is just the right size also......not so overwhelming!

After visiting the museum, I went through San Marco Piazza and sat down at one of the outdoor cafes and drank prosecco (Italian champagne) and listened to one of the bands that plays classical music on the Piazza. The piazza was crowded, and it was a beautiful day. By this time, is was already 6:00, and I decide to visit a restaurant I had heard about that specializes in fish. I have been craving fish since living in Florence. Florence is land locked (except for the river, which you would not want to eat out of) and they eat a lot of meat, but not much fish. This was the perfect opportunity to get a fix. The restaurant is called Al Conte Pescaor, and is located down a little street, and pretty hard to find. Venice is very easy to get lost in, but thankfully it is small, so you can’t get lost to badly. I found the restaurant, the menu looked fabulous, and I ordered octopus salad (Insalata polpiti) and Branzino Griglia con asparagi. (Grilled Sea Bass with asparagus). It was fabulous and there was an outside dining area, where I could continue to people watch.

All day long, I had been speaking Italian to people and doing pretty well. Being out and having conversations with people is the real test, so I think I will focus more on that than the tests in my classroom! Anyway, people actually thought I could speak Italian! They responded back to me, and most of the time, I could understand them. Progress!

Dinners in Italy take a long time, but because it was early, I finished in an hour and had plenty of time to get to the station for my train. I got to the station at 8:15 for an 8:44 departure. I pulled my ticket out of my bag, and then it struck me! Right there as plain as day, the ticket I had changed was from Florence to Venice, not from Venice to Florence. The ticket that I had from Venice to Florence was there, but that train had already left. I rushed over to the ticket machine to change the ticket for a departure from Venice, but there were no more trains departing Venice tonight! Great! That will damage my budget!

Thankfully, there are hotel booking agents in the train stations, which make it very convenient. I went ahead and changed my train ticket for Monday morning, and went into the office to secure a hotel room. The booking office was a madhouse. Just as I came in, the woman working there said there were no more double rooms in Florence because of the holiday, and the rooms she had were ½ hour train ride away. I thought that would be fine, and since I had no alternative, waited in line. When it was my turn, I told her I wanted a single room, and she was able to secure one in Venice. It was in the area of the Peggy Guggenheim, and cost $100 euro per night for a 2 star, single room. I took the room, and expected the worst. Hotels in Italy are small, and usually old, and not what we are accustomed to anyway. I had never stayed in a 2 star, but what the heck? I got back on the vaporetta and made my way down the canal.
The woman in the office had given me directions to the hotel, and said that if I wasn’t there in two hours, that they would give away the room. Venice is not big, but as I said it is easy to get lost, so two hours could easily be pushing it. It was a 40 minute ride in the boat down the canal at that time of night (9:30 p.m.) Nightlife just beginning.

The area where the hotel was located was absolutely beautiful. It is a residential area, very quiet, and near the Accademia and the galleries. There are beautiful homes and gardens there and even at night it was gorgeous. I found the hotel easily enough, and was very pleasantly surprised! I don’t know why it is rated as a two star, because it is much nicer than some places I have stayed. Anyway, I checked in, put my bag and jacket in my room, and then went back to the bar for a glass of wine. (Surprise!)

At this point, I am pretty happy. I have had a nice day, good entertainment, good weather, great food, and good luck with the hotel, so aside from being out a little more money than I expected, everything is good.

The next morning, I get up early, head to the station (take a lot of photos along the way) and wait for my train which is to leave at 8:45 a.m. and arrive in Florence at 11:30. When you are at the station, they post the track that the train will depart from about ½ hour before departure. At 8:20, there was no sign of my train on the postings, so I went to ask about it.

The ticket agent looked at my ticket and told me that the train I had booked left from the other Venice train station, and that I had to take the regional train there, but that I wouldn’t make it in time. Great! Here I am again......no luck with these train tickets! I had to purchase another return ticket (this one could not be changed for some reason) for 37 euro, and change trains 3 times to get back to Florence at 1:00 p.m.! Ok, what else?

I board the train in Venice San Lucia, went to Venice Mestre, traveled from there to Bologna, and changed trains in Bologna to get to Florence. One thing that is odd about Italian trains, is that you have to know the routes. For example, the train that I got on in Bologna said that it was going to Napoli, and said nothing about Florence. There is a train number on the ticket, but they do not post them with those numbers which would be helpful. I started asking questions when I got to Bologna and didn’t see the Florence train, so that I was instructed to the Napoli train.

So, everyday is an adventure and out of every mishap, you can learn a few things. Here’s what I learned:

1. Book your ticket ahead of time on the internet if you can.
2. Pay attention to the stations in cities that have more than one train station
3. Get a train route map so that you know what the "end of the line" is.
4. You can get by wearing the same clothes for two days.
5. You can live without a comb and toothpaste.
6. If you laugh and learn and go with the flow, everything will turn out okay.
Oh yeah, when I got to the station, and ate breakfast, I really wanted to brush my teeth, but couldn’t find anywhere to buy a toothbrush so I opted for gum out of a vending machine instead. I had just enough change to put into the machine, and I put it in and pressed the button. The gum got hung in the machine! That was my laughing point.

Fountains in Florence

Florence has its share of fountains like every other Italian city. My favorite here is the Neptune Fountain on Piazza della Signoria. Unfortunately, the weather here has been so beautiful, with no rain that there is the danger of a drought now, so the fountains are turned off! They are still very beautiful and lit up at night.

The fountains in Florence are modest compared to other Italian cities, particularly Rome, where my favorite, The Trevi Fountain is located. I will be traveling to Rome in a couple of weeks to meet Amy, and will definitely visit the Trevi Fountain.

Here are some photos of the ones in Florence.

The brass wild boar in the photo is located in Mercato Nuovo, It is called Il Porcellino. It is a 17th century copy of a statute in the Uffizi. Notice that the nose is very shiny compared to the rest of the body. That is because of the superstition that any visitor who rubs it will return to Florence some day. Laugh if you want, but it worked for me!

Pedestrian Road Rage

Italians are very fun loving, easy going people with minimal space requirements. I think that is a function of the way they live. Space is at a premium in the city, and having a lot of space is expensive, so most people don’t. If you see a group of Italians standing in line.....well, there isn’t one. They just kind of group together. They do respect "taking turns", but apparently don’t see the need to be in an organized line to do so. Public transportation is crowded, so you are side by side. Americans personal space needs are much broader, and I see a lot of American tourist become very uncomfortable in situations were a lot of people are standing, walking, etc.

I bring all this up, because of my own personal problem, that I have not yet been able to overcome, and in fact it gets worse by the day......pedestrian road rage. As you know, I walk everywhere. At certain times of the day, I am walking with a purpose: get to school, get home from school for lunch, go to the market, etc. During these times, the tourists who stroll along the sidewalks, or even worse, who stand on the street corners with gelato in hand gaping at a church, fountain, tower, statue, or whatever drive me NUTS!

I have asked Italian people who I have met what they think about these tourists and how they block the sidewalks and streets, and they laugh and say that without the tourists there would be no jobs! What a great attitude! This road rage of mine is a part of my American aggression and type A personality that I am trying to lose. Wish me luck!

Just so you know the extent of what I am talking about, I included a photo....

Awe and Wonder

I have been to almost all of the tourist sites in Florence, at least once, some of them more. If you visit me, I may accompany you on some of your trip to the sites, and some probably not. The Uffizi is magnificent, and I have been there 3 times in 3 years. Once per year is enough for me. It is huge and overwhelming, and much of the art is not to my taste, although the age and the artists amaze me.

There is one "sight" that when you come to visit, I know you will go to see, and I will accompany everyone each time. It is the one that strikes that childlike "awe and wonder" in me, that I thought was lost......David, by Michelangelo. I think the effect is very much the same for everyone, although no one ever thinks it is going to be.

By the time you go into The Galleria dell’ Accademia, you will probably already have seen so many photos of David, and even the replica (full size) that stands in Piazza della Signoria that you will think that it will be the same thing, and not so much after all, but you will be wrong. Maybe it is the "presentation" a long hallway flanked by other sculptures of Michelangelo’s, the sunlit dome over David’s head, or the lighting, I don’t know.

If you don’t remember what "awe and wonder" feels like, you are in for a treat. After having been struck twice by Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling, and David my "awe and wonder" have transferred now from the art to the artist.

Italian Men.................

Once when I was vacationing in Italy......I think it was last Fall, Doug Gray asked me what was attractive about Italian men. At the time, I couldn't quantify or explain it, but I have been paying more attention, so that I can answer that question now. Granted, the sample size is not valid (contrary to what some of you think!) and I am speaking in generalities based on my own experiences, but here are the answers.

For my family members who are reading, please censor accordingly for my nieces and nephews!

1. Italian men are more demonstrative-in the way they speak and listen, and use their hands (that joke about "Roman hands" was not written for nothing!)

2. Italian men dress nicely even when they are casual. The polo shirt has not disgraced Europe yet

3. Italian men wear nice shoes-all leather, all the time-no tennis shoes, except for playing soccer

4. Italian men know about and enjoy wine

5. Italian men will chose wine over beer almost every time. (Even with pizza)

6. Italian men know about and enjoy art

7. Italian men know about and enjoy classical music and opera

8. Italian men speak Italian.

9. When Italian men speak English they have a beautiful Italian accent.

10. Italian men appreciate age and experience.

11. Italian men are not intimidated by American women.

12. Guns are not Italian men's best friend and favorite toy.

13. Italian men don’t "go huntin and fishin’"

14. Italian men only like soccer as a sport. One sport, one season. YEAH!

15. Italian men like women with big asses! What luck. (And isn’t it ironic to that I am losing mine now?)

16. Italian men like to leave the lights on.

17. Italian men like to cook.

18. Italian men have fabulous names. Here are some that I know so far: Bruno, Raffaele, Francesco, Enrico, Luca, Marco, Luciano, Andrea.





.

Scuola Leonardo Da Vince part due

Well, I am beginning my third week of school. On Friday I had my first test covering the first 2 weeks of material, and I made an 86. I was happy with this given how the day went, and the fact that I don’t know prepositions. I missed a couple of other things on the test which were primarily nerves, but the prepositions, I just don’t know. We knew there was going to be a test, but had no information on the format etc. When we arrived for class on Friday, we had a "substitute" teacher for grammar. This really threw everyone for a loop! The way that she spoke Italian was very different from our usual grammar teacher.....probably a different dialect, but I could not understand a word she was saying! She went through the exercises very quickly, and did not give time for us to correct our responses. All of us in the class were looking at each other and thinking "What the hell?" Needless to say, my confidence was greatly shaken at this point. We had our break and I looked over some of my material and tried to calm myself.

A man came into the class and asked in Italian who was leaving the class after today. Again we all looked at each other as none of us were planning to leave. He continued to talk to us in Italian, and started passing out a paper. We were surprised because at this point, we had not seen either of our regular teachers, and were unprepared for this. At that point, Francesca, our conversation teacher came into the room. The man was in the incorrect classroom!

I can’t really remember the last time I had to take a test, but I do know that I have never been very good at it. I sometimes rush and overlook details, and other times get so nervous I can’t think. I had both of those things happening, but it turned out okay.

I bought two text books in English covering Italian Grammar to help me with the prepositions, but still no luck. The teachers responde, "piano, piano, prepozitiones e molto difficile". Yes, I agree with that!

Anyway, the score of 86 officially gets me into level 2. My classmates are all the same. There have been a few students who did not start with the class that have "popped" in for a day or two at a time. I think this is because if you have had Italian Language courses before, they test you and then place you in a class, if the class is not a good "fit" for your skills, then you can change classes.

The Australian girl in my class is a real annoyance! She is very young, probably 21. She says she is there because she just finished university and she doesn’t know what she wants to do, so she is traveling. Please! The reason she is an annoyance, is because she comes to class once in a blue moon, always late, and leaves early. She didn’t take the test on Friday, but is moving on through the class as if she did. My personal issue with this is that when she doesn’t understand something, which is often since she is never in class, I have to explain it to her because I am the only other English speaker.

Today in class I had a conversation in Italian with a German and a Japanese person about cities in our respective countries that we like. Amazing!

Food in Florence

Well, what can I say about the food in Florence other than magnifico, tutti buono!!? First of all, we have to start with the ingredients. Fiorintines use all fresh ingredients. Occasionally, on a menu, you will see a frozen item, but it is always noted. In the grocery store, the frozen food section is very limited. Some prepackaged foods, but mostly vegetables. No TV dinners, Lean Cuisines, or anything like that.

Fast food doesn’t really exist. Italians do not "take out" very often. Occasionally, you will see a pizza go out, and there are fresh sandwiches that you can buy to eat while walking, but you never see anyone carrying a paper cup of coffee, or soda (maybe a bottle of wine or a beer).
Menus consist of several categories: Antipasto, which is an appetizer, Primi-which is the first course, usually a pasta or risotto, Secondi-which is the main entree, Insalata-the salad course, which is eaten after the meal and supposed to be better for digestion, and then there are the Pizzas (not usually eaten in a several course meal) Contorni-which are the side dishes, and Dolci-or desserts.

Let me tell you a little bit about what might be in each category. Since I am not a "meat eater", sometimes my choices are very limited. Florence is not near the ocean, so their fish dishes are not abundant. They do however eat almost every other animal known to man, and all of the pieces and parts of those animals!

The Antipasto course may be something like bruschetta, crostini, caprese, cheese. The bruschetta is somewhat similar to what you might find in an Italian restaurant at home, but it will only ever have fresh tomatoes on it! No canned, and the most excellent olive oil.
The Primi Course will be pasta, gnocchi or risotto. These are relatively small portions, but could easily be a meal. I like to share these if I am with another person. Some of the most popular ones are Porcini risotto, Quattro Formaggia Gnocchi (4 cheese) and this is my personal favorite, Spaghetti with meat sauce, or Bechamel Lasagne.

Secondi consists of the famous Bistecca Fiorintina, which is at least a 1 kilo (2.2 lb) T-bone, of the most excellent Italian beef, grilled and cut into pieces and served on a wooden platter. I, of course, haven’t eaten this, but the boys did when they were here, and they did not leave any of that 2.2 lbs to waste! It looks delicious and I could consider being a carnivore over it!

Additionally, on menus you will find hare, chicken, fillet of beef, tripe (cows stomach), and calves liver. Sometimes fish, although rare, and usually Gambrini (shrimp)

The salads here are extraordinary. I have commented before on the quality of the tomatoes in the area, and that pretty much applies to all of the produce. I think that most of the produce that is used is grown in Italy (Southern) so it doesn’t have far to be shipped. It is always so beautiful and fresh and tasty. Italians do not appear to have ever heard of iceberg, which I think is a blessing. Or if they have heard of it, they have the good sense not to eat it and instead use all types of other greens like rucola, arugula, spinach, white and red leaf lettuce. They use yellow kernel corn in most of their salads which adds a nice color, grated carrots, tomatoes of course, and then top with avocados, shrimp, tuna (which is canned and packed in olive oil, and unbelievably delicious) olives, cheese, or peppers. All of these ingredients would probably never be found on one salad. They use them in different combinations that are extraordinary! Let me tell you something about Italian Dressing. That stuff we use at home is not it! The only dressings that Italians use for their salads is Olive Oil (and they make some of the finest in the world-and you can tell the difference!) and vinegar (either Balsamic-again they make the best! Or Red Wine)

Next we have the pizzas. I swear I eat this almost every day! They are about 12 inches in diameter, but one person can easily eat the whole thing because the crust is so thin and light and the ingredients used so fresh and delicious. You will never find anything appalling like "the meat lovers" or the "cheeseburger explosion", or a "supreme" here. Most pizzas have 1 to 3 ingredients on them. They usually contain the usual tomato sauce, and some type of cheese (with fresh mozzarella or buffalo mozzarella) then you can have porcini mushroom, olives, tuna, sausage, salami, ham, onions, artichokes, feta cheese, fresh tomatoes, spinach, garlic, to name a few. The Margarita pizza is a popular one from Southern Italy which has only fresh mozzarella and basil on it.

Contorni, or side dishes consist of sauteed spinach, patate frites (friend potatoes, but unbelievably tasty and not greasy!), roasted potatoes, beans, etc.
Dolci-which I have not been able to eat because of the egg issue, usually consist of Tiramisu (of course) a type of cheese cake, a chocolate torte, and gelato.

I have to talk about Tuscan bread. I hate it. It is dry and tasteless because they do not use any salt in it. Italians do not use butter, and they also do not mix olive oil and cheese and dip bread in it like they do at Macaroni Grill! Go figure! The bread is only useful, in my opinion, if you have a sauce on your dish that you want to sop up!

Aside from the bread, I have not put one bad tasting food in my mouth! Of course, I have the wonderful wine to accompany every meal! And still, I have managed to lose 7 kilos (15.4 lbs!)
I wish I had some photos of the food, but that would be just too odd, wouldn’t it?